Alterations
Our coats are cut to be proportionately balanced but are easily adjusted if you want a more precise fit.
Sleeve length
The sleeves are cut in proportion to the chest circumference and average body height for each size. If your arms are a little longer or shorter than average, or if one arm is slightly longer than the other, then you can easily fine-tune the sleeve length up to 1cm longer or shorter without having to unpick the sleeve lining or doing any costly professional alterations.
1. First, put the coat on and looking in the mirror, decide how much you want adjust the sleeve length.
2. Next, chalk mark the bottom folded edge of the sleeve to mark the original sleeve length.
3. Turn the sleeves inside out. At the top of the folded hem where the cloth meets the lining you will see a small bar-tack stitch running horizontally like a little bridge across each of the three sleeve seams. Carefully cut through these and remove them. The sleeve is now free to be lengthened or shortened.
5. Chalk mark the new hemline above or below the original hem and fold the sleeve to the new line, securing in place with pins or with a loose line of stitching (basting) around the new hem line.
6. To finish simply add new bar-tack stitches as before, catching just the hem and the seam allowance with three or four passes. Be careful not to catch the outside layer of the cloth or the stitches will be visible. Tie each of these off so they are secure and remove any pins.
7. Press around the new hem with a steam iron on medium-hot setting with a little bit of steam to remove the old fold and press in the new one. Turn the sleeves inside out and they're finished.
Email us at info@furoshikiovercoat.com if you'd like to find out about our London-based alterations service.
Fit
The sleeves are cut at a specific angle to only fall at the natural edge of the shoulder, in a similar way to a kimono sleeve. This accommodates a range of shoulder widths and allows for different layers to be worn underneath.
If the coat is either a little snug or too roomy when you button it up, there is a simple adjustment to fine-tune the fit. Our coats are cut with a generous 'wrap' or overlap of 6cm, fitting more like a half-breasted coat than a single-breasted one. To adjust the fit, simply move the line of front buttons either away from the front edge for a closer fit or towards the front edge for a looser fit. The new buttons will need to match vertically to the button holes, so make sure you move them on a straight horizontal line. As always, less is more.
1. Chalk mark horizontal lines from each button and then mark the new button position measuring from the centre of each button.
2. Double thread the needle and make sure to stitch through all layers, securing the small backing buttons on the facing side and wrap the stem of the button five times before tying off twice. This stem accounts for the thickness of the cloth so a thicker cloth will need a taller stem. The top button at the neck has no backing button as it would show on the lapel.
Waist suppression
When not in use, the belt can be tied behind your back. To avoid a bulky lump the best knot to use is a simple slip-knot.
1. Cross the belt ends but tie a single knot with only one side of the belt, tightening over the free end so it can slide.
2. Pull the free end through the slip-knot and tighten to suppress the waist line and give a more waisted silhouette.
3. A more A-line silhouette can be achieved by removing the belt and wearing the coat just with the top neck button closed.